Onward Travel Plans and Penang Hill (9th December 2011)

Georgetown

Today’s first mission is to get to the train ticket booking office to see if I can get a ticket for tomorrow to Bangkok. Then the rest of my day is free to see some more of the great sights of Penang.

At the booking office it was, as I suspected, only an upper berth and just one seat left on the train! I totally hate upper births of any description, in a dorm on a train wherever, I’m sure unjustified but hey! Life is so much easier if you’re on the bottom bunk, also for such a long journey being on the top bunk I think it would be a little claustrophobic and that does have the potential to escalate for me at the mo.

So to that end, I had already decided that if the top bunk was the only one available I would fly!

So I thanked the lady and headed back to the hostel again to check out flight prices. Now I know I’m not on the breadline just yet, almost but not quite with all this travelling! But even so the flights were coming in at a stupid price, really a very stupid price. I spent a bit of time trying all the different airlines and even looking at going to KL and then on from there to Bangkok and it was going to be marginally cheaper than direct but nothing much more than that. The cheapest ticket I found was with Malaysian Airways for £130……one way!

At the same time I kept looking at the site ‘The man in seat 61’ which is all about train travel all over the world (it’s a brilliant site) and what the writer, Mark Smith, had to say about the upper bunks etc. It seems on this train the upper bunks do have a window so not as claustrophobic and really when I think about it the prices just can’t compare can they? £130 to fly or £20 by train. This is a time when I could really do with someone else with me to just help me with decision making ;-) I mean it’s really not that hard right, but you would have thought it was! In the end I just really can’t justify spending all that money and decide to go back, once again, to the ticket office to see if there is still the last ticket free and if so, this time I’m having it, the travel is in the journey after all right?!

When I got to the office there was a guy in front of me and for a brief second I thought he might be getting the last ticket, but no it’s still available and better still it appears to be a bottom bunk after all!! Fantastic, I could have kissed the woman behind the counter, if there hadn’t have been a glass partition of course! The guy who was in front of me and was just pocketing his change overheard our conversation and said I must be very lucky, I could have spent the next several hours telling him about the past few years and how luck hasn’t particularly shinned on me terribly brightly (!) but I thought I’d spare him the boredom of it all and just agreed and hoped that the ticket lady was in fact right and I had the bottom bunk, if not though, it still all an experience, right?

Now with the rest of the day at my fingertips I decided on my next plan.

First was a visit to Wat Chayamangkalaram and The Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist Temple, two temples on the outskirts of the city, one is of Thai origins and the other Burmese so an interesting comparison. Finding the temples was a bit of a chore though. The map I have isn’t really that great and only good for around the main city centre and it seems the city and surrounding area is built on a bit of a one way system, this is coupled with the fact that for such a small island the traffic congestion is absolutely incredible. The LP guide said the temples were just off Jalan Burma, so up and down and up and down and then up and down Jalan Burma I went on my little scooter but could I find them? I found the Buddhist meditation centre but no one around to ask directions, eventually almost on the point of giving up I found someone who could direct me in the right direction and in fact the temples weren’t just off Jalan Burma at all, close by but not just off!

The reclining buddha

Wat Chayamangkalaram

Lots of little Buddhas!

The Thai temple houses a 33m reclining Buddha draped in a gold leafed saffron robe which was very impressive whereas by comparison the Burmese temple is a rare example of a Buddhist temple outside of Myanmar and incredible displays, in the walkways, of a series of paneled paintings of the life of the Buddha. It was a very interesting visit, until the tour buses turned up, but by now my stomach was rumbling so I headed off for lunch and whatever the afternoon may bring.

The Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist Temple

The view below of both Buddhist temples - the Thai temple is in the background

This afternoon I fancy visiting the Penang Museum which is meant to be interesting and then if I can find it a visit to Penang Hill to ride the cable car to the top.

When I was in Borneo last year I got really quite addicted to and a bit of a expert on the delights of Mee Goreng which is a delicious dish of fried noodles with vegetables, not the healthiest I’m sure (apart from the veggies) but really very tasty. So far on this trip I haven’t really seen them anywhere and my new favourite cheap meal is now fried rice.

The kind of places I tend to try and eat in are places where the locals go and are like food courts, usually outside and are generally a massive seating area surrounded by food stalls selling everything you’ve ever dreamed of and in some case things you would only have nightmares about…..the fried bugs for instance! So this lunch stop was down by the waterfront and I found a stall which said they did Mee Goreng and despite there being no one there to do the cooking having seen it written I now set my sights on it. Fortunately after only a couple of seconds of hanging around someone came to take my order and soon presented me with this trips first Mee Goreng and it was super spicy, it wasn’t as great as on Borneo but nice all the same, think I’m going to stick to the fried rice though!

After lunch I found my way to the Penang museum to discover it was closed on a Friday! Great, oh well perhaps I’ll fit it in in the morning.

Now for the next adventure, to try and find my way to Penang Hill on my little scooter in all the mad traffic.

The roads here are ridiculously busy and it’s a real challenge winding through the traffic as well as trying to find your way to where you want to go when in fact you actually don’t have much of a clue where that is. Considering I haven’t ridden a bike for ages, apart from a couple of hours on Ko Lanta, I think I’m doing pretty good, I’m really getting the hang of the traffic and loving being back on two wheels again, perhaps I’ll get another bike one day at home and this time try and not let it rot in the shed! After some brave manoeuvres I finally manage to find myself on, I think, the right road out of town and the LP says its only about 5km out of town so I think the hill I can see in the distance must be it, of course there’s no road signs, at least not what I can see, but I continue heading for the hill in the distance and finally come across Penang Hill.

There is a funicular cable car going to the top of the hill which has been running since 1906, fortunately perhaps the carriages have been renewed over the years and the one they have now is super fast, really impressive, you’re at the top before you know it for some amazing views across Georgetown.

The modern funicular on Penang Hill

View from the top of Penang Hill

One of the first funiculars

The mosque at Penang Hill

Some of the wildlife of Penang HIll
















I guess if you don't like the kids!

At the top there’s a mosque and a hotel, botanic gardens and a snake show. I declined on all accounts and had a bit of a wander around and a drink before I heard thunder and saw rain in the distance and decided that riding a scooter in mad traffic in a foreign country when I didn’t really know where I was going, when it was getting dark really wasn’t my idea of fun so made my way back to the bottom to escape all of the above. Unfortunately I was too late and half way down the hill it started raining. I have a poncho as well as a waterproof jacket which would have been handy….it’s just a shame I left them back in the room in Georgetown! So there I am in shorts and a vest about to get on a scooter back to the city in the pouring rain, this is what it’s all about isn’t it?? ;-)

In the end I decided to wait about half hour till the rain had stopped a little and before it got too dark then attempted to negotiate my way back. The rain wasn’t too bad really once you were going and halfway back it pretty much stopped, what didn’t stop though was the endless traffic. All the local people are used to the traffic and used to riding scooters so were able to weave in and out of the traffic but I was still finding my feet a little and although I was being pretty adventurous in my driving I was still cautious compared to some others. I have to say though I wish I had a head cam because even on play back I would have been amazed at the traffic and my negotiations of it all.

Finally back at the GH there was time for a shower, quick bite to eat and an attempt online to find accommodation in Bangkok as well as update the blog and make a start on sorting Christmas gifts.

The view from the top of Penang Hill

The funicular in action

Batu Ferringhi by moped! (8th December 2011)

My first full day in Penang and what to do?

I fancy hiring a scooter to get around a bit with and then head out to Batu Ferringhi. Batu Ferringhi is where Mick normally stays when he’s here, and hopefully I’ll maybe try and visit the National Park for some good walking. Coming to Malaysia and Singapore it’s really very interesting to know where Mick goes on his travels and where he stays and then seeing them for myself and trying to imagine him here, it’s strange but interesting.

So Mick normally stays in Batu Ferringhi which by all accounts is a beach resort so I get myself a scooter after some negotiating and head out that way, the traffic is incredible getting out of the city but it doesn’t take too long really and eventually I arrive, just in time for lunch!

You've got to love this roundabout sculpture, it sure beats the cows we had!!

Telok Bahang right near the national park

Every now and then I fancy a western meal so find a nice little beach bar and treat myself to a very tasty tuna toastie and chips.

There doesn’t seem to be too much in Batu Ferringhi apart from the usual watersports although even that didn’t look like too much excitement, the guys running it didn’t seem to be too happy to be doing so to be honest!

I did manage to find the post office though for Mick although they didn’t have what he wanted so instead I headed off to find the National Park. Road signs don’t seem to be in abundance on Penang, I guess that’s the advantage of going somewhere by bus or on an organized tour, there’s always someone else letting you know when and where to get off.

After riding past the entrance only a couple of times (!) I finally realize it’s the National Park and not a hotel and register at the main office and head off on a walk. There are a couple of routes in the park - along the beaches or through the forest. I opted for the forest walk which was really nice, it was up and down and very sweaty in places but very enjoyable and I actually felt like I was getting some exercise for the first time this trip which was nice, I need to work off all the food I’m eating! I walked over to Turtle Beach not that there were any turtles there, spend a little bit of time looking around and taking pics before making the walk back. It’s a shame I didn’t have time to do the other walk as well but maybe another time……..there’s always something to come back for right?

Turtle Beach Penang National Park

By the way I am loving being back on a bike again even if it is a moped! ;-) Oh dear that’s not a good thing for my bank balance I don’t think!

A fishing community at Telok Bahang right near the park. I love the way they park their mopeds on the very rickedy pier out to the boats

This was a great insight into local life at Telok Bahang

While the men go fishing.........so do the ladies!

Back in Georgetown I headed to the local food stalls for dinner and then later got chatting to one of the other girls in the dorm and when the noise from the TV in the lounge area really got too much we went out for a couple of drinks before bed.

Christmas in Little India

Off to Penang (7th December 2011)

I’d rather not be leaving Singapore but I know there are all these other great places to see still and in all reality I’m not sure my budget will stretch too much further here. It’s definitely a lot more expensive here than anywhere else I’ve been on this trip. I’ve really enjoyed visiting it though, I always thought I didn’t like big cities but this one is really nice and definitely worth another visit at some point.

So my flight out this morning to Penang in Malaysia is at 11am and there’s just enough time to meet with some friends of Micks, Joseph and his wife Christina before I have to leave. Unfortunately they weren’t around to meet up the last couple of days but have popped into the hostel to say hello before I leave. Joseph is someone Mick has met through all his visits to the Philatelic Museum here and over the years they have become great friends, I’ve always heard a lot about Joseph so it was really nice to finally meet him.

At Singapore airport I’m afraid I’ve succumbed again and headed straight for a MacDonald’s breakfast. I honestly don’t know what’s come over me…..for about 6 or 7 years I haven’t even touched a MacDonalds, and now that’s two in a week I think! Still beats rice for breakfast, I’ll never get my head around that one!

The flight to Penang only took an hour or so and on arrival I found the right local bus and was in Georgetown by early afternoon.

Once again I’m always trying to think of my next plan and right now although I’ve only just arrived I need to sort out a way back to Bangkok. I really want to go by train and I really want to be back in Bangkok in time to see some of the massive weekend market there so after a quick lunch stop and a wander around the colonial area I made my way to the train ticket booking office to see what was available.

Some sights of Georgetown

When I got there, there was a ‘harmless’ looking little old lady in front of me in the queue who had just booked her ticket to Bangkok leaving on Saturday as that was the first day they had available with lower bunks and as she was checking her ticket we started chatting.

Boy was that the worst decision of my day! Literally the first words out of her mouth was how Thailand have a crap government and how she lives in Bangkok and how her house has been flooded (immediately producing the photo for good measure) and how she’s lived through coups, the Tsunami (I wasn’t aware it had reached Bangkok but hey I could be wrong! (although I very much doubt it!) ;-)) and how she’s now lived through the flooding and this time she fully intends to get compensation from the Thai government, the very same Thai government she hates!!

I agreed at how terrible the flooding was and made the fatal mistake of commenting on all the other poor people who had nowhere else to go. Well that was her license to literally go into a spiral of anti Thailand and anti Thai people and how she doesn’t have a choice she has to live here etc, I have to be honest she immediately got my back up just by the way she was talking and the way she was then talking to the ticket lady.

I pointed out that in fact she did have a choice because she was here in Malaysia while there were so many other people in Thailand who really did have nowhere else to go. Well that was it she didn’t stop and in the end I just had to walk away from her leaving her still ranting after me and I can honestly say I don’t think I’ve ever met someone on a trip that can make me feel the way she did. Before I met her I was feeling quite happy and relaxed and excited about the next few days and the trip to Bangkok and then of course coming home but after meeting her it was like a massive black cloud had loomed. What a really unpleasant person who I hope I never meet again!

I wandered back from the ticket office having not booked a ticket whilst also trying to work out what could have happened to the lady I had just met that had made her so unpleasant.

The last couple of days, especially in Singapore I’ve been wondering about the options of living in this part of the world and what I might actually be able to do, work wise, to make that happen. I know there’s good things about relocating to another country and there’s bad things, it’s not always a holiday, and probably as a woman on her own the bad may well totally outweigh the good but even so I was really quite taken back by her vicious words about a country she has decided to make home to make me really think again!

With that on my mind I took a leisurely stroll back to the GH in an attempt to try and understand her verbal attack but you know, I still can’t, so after a quick shower I head out to Little India for some yummy curry.

More sights of Georgetown

When I was in Singapore I was introduced to ‘the selection meal’ I have no idea what it’s called officially but each Indian café seems to offer it and you basically get a serving of rice with 5 or 6 different tasters of accompaniments. I have absolutely no idea what I’m eating but each time I have it I’m assured its vegetarian so that’s fine with me. I have to laugh sometimes because there was a time (which Pete I’m sure you’ll remember) that ‘foreign’ food was never, ever on my itinerary, Pete used to love taking the mikey out of me ordering chicken and chips in the local Indian or Chinese, and even more recently (maybe 10 years ago) I can recall going to Goa with work and just having bread and chips because I didn’t want to try anything! Now I love all the food from different countries I visit, probably shown by my waistline (!) and will try absolutely anything now, just as long as it’s vegetarian. ;-)

Chinese temple in Georgetown